Old Truck Rust - Part 3 - Rust Removal Made Easy With Household Vinegar

Believe it or not, you can use vinegar to remove rust from your old truck. It is not only cheap but easy too.

By now you have probably found a couple of rust stains in your old truck and are worrying about it. And you should worry because, if you don't do something about it, the corrosion will slowly eat up the metal and give you a much bigger headache.

The rust removal technique we are going to teach you here works fine on superficial rust only. If the stain has already become a hole, this won't solve the problem. But it will remove the rust stain and you will only have to sand the surface and paint it again. You will have to do this inside your garage and not in the open.

First, get some white vinegar. Depending on the size of the stain you may need a whole gallon or even more since you will have to soak the corroded surface overnight.

You will also need a couple of brushes and a few rags for a thorough rust removal.

If the corroded surface is on a particular part that you can remove from your old truck, do so and find a container big enough to house the part. Let's say you have a corroded headlight housing. Get a plastic bucket, put the white vinegar in it and put the headlight housing inside. Let it soak overnight. The next day, give the headlight housing a good wash, preferably with a hose or a light pressure washer and presto! The rust is gone. Now you must thoroughly dry the headlight housing, prime it and paint it again.

If the corrosion stain is on a bigger part, say a door or a fender, use the rags to soak the stain. Get the rags and soak them completely in white vinegar. Put the soaked rags over the rust stain and let them there overnight. In the morning, remove the rags and give the part a thorough wash with a hose or even a light pressure washer to completely remove the corrosion stain.

As you know, vinegar is very corrosive and there is something else you have to do before painting to protect the metal. Apply a thin coat of phosphoric acid to the surface of the bare metal, after the corrosion is removed. You can use a rag or a paper towel for that. Phosphoric acid can be found in auto parts stores under generic names like rust remover, naval jelly or even miracle paint.

To make sure the rust removal process is done right it is also important that the corroded part or surface is not left in contact with vinegar longer than necessary. After all, as we said above vinegar is a corrosive solution and it will eat up the metal too. The ideal for most cases of rust is to soak between 8 to 10 hours and then apply the phosphoric acid.

One final word: as I said above this technique works only for small rust stains that haven't completely corroded the metal and opened a whole in it. Vinegar will not restore the metal. In fact it only attacks the corrosion and cleans the metal, so to speak. But if left there it will destroy the metal even faster and deeper than natural corrosion.

So, trust vinegar to remove rust from your old truck but make sure you don't overdo it.

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How a Headache Rack Can Save Your Life

Paying the price of a day's work

If your pickup truck works for a living, then there is no doubt that you have had to deal with the occasional ding, dent or scrape in the body work. For most of us, it's the cost of doing business, and while no one likes to see their truck get damaged, sometimes small accidents are unavoidable.

Crossing the line

While a scratch on your truck's fender is certainly discouraging, it isn't life threatening. But what if one day you slammed on the brakes and had the cargo you were hauling come smashing through the window of your truck, directly behind your head? Obviously, this type of incident is much more serious, in terms of both the potential damage to the truck and to your health.

Protecting yourself

Fortunately, accidents like these can easily be prevented through the installation of a headache rack. This is a type of rack which is mounted directly between your truck's cargo area and the passenger compartment. Typically, they are made of either vertical or horizontal tubular steel, and sometimes they also employ mesh to fill in the gaps between each beam. The steel in a wholesale headache rack is strong enough to resist even the toughest impact from sliding cargo, and since the rack is firmly anchored to the top of the truck bed, it's not going anywhere. These racks are custom designed to fit every model of truck from major companies such as Ford and Dodge, allowing the rack to be custom tailored to the body shape of an individual pickup.

More than just safety

Headache racks offer a number of other uses beyond protecting you and your rear window from possible damage. Some racks come with a louvered design which helps to keep the sun out of your truck's cab and off the back of your neck. This can lower temperatures inside your pickup as well as prevent sunburns. The racks also make an excellent anchor for the tethering of tall cargo, and can be a great place for mounting ladders which are too long to fit completely in the truck's bed. Tilting them up over top of the headache rack so that they rest diagonally in the cargo area can save the hassle of having to install a full ladder rack.

A great place to mount lights

Some truck owners get creative with their racks and use them in place of roll bars as mounting points for off-road driving lights. Given the height and width of a typical rack, quite a large number of lights can be mounted facing both forwards to light your way on the trail and backwards to let you keep an eye on cargo in the night. Security companies also appreciate the ability to mount searchlights on top of these racks, taking advantage of the ability to swivel the lights a full 360 degrees. Not having to drill through the roof of the truck lets you preserve the value of your vehicle and still get the lighting options you need.

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Old Truck Rust - Part 2 - What to Do When You First Discover Rust

Let's say you bought a nice old truck and a few months later you noticed that little rust bubbles have formed under the paint, around one of the corners of your windshield.

Then you do an inspection of the whole truck and find more bubbles in the fenders, in the body and under the cab. What do you do?

Don't start screaming and don't run to your body shop just yet. Old truck rust has no cure but it is a normal thing. If you see bubbles which are less than half an inch wide, your truck will not be consumed by it immediately. You have some time until the problem gets really serious. The small bubbles you see are only a warning sign that the problem will require your attention.

I don't want you to get the wrong idea and to think that I am saying for you not to worry with the first signs of corrosion. That's not what I'm saying and I don't consider myself an expert who would be able to advise you on what to do. I am just using my own experience with my 1954 Chevy truck.

When I bought the pickup corrosion had taken hold of almost every part of my old truck. I dismantled the whole truck and did a complete frame up restoration. The first thing we did was to sand blast all the metal parts to get rid of the corrosion. There were holes in several places and they were all patched. To make a long story short, the truck came out of the restoration with no rust at all.

About three years later I saw a couple of bubbles under the paint, around the windshield and at the bottom of the right front fender. Old truck rust was back. I could do three things: have the rust removed from those two spots, paint the whole truck again or just wait. Being prone to procrastination I decided to wait.

Four more years went by and during this time several other corrosion spots were discovered in the fenders, the cab and the cargo bed. The first two rust bubbles, around the windshield and at the bottom of the right fender, became much larger than they were when first discovered.

The solution? A new coat of paint needed to be applied to the old truck. After almost eight years there were several scratches and the paint was beginning to fade. I found a good body shop and had the rust spots removed before a new coat of paint was applied to the truck. It looks great now and it is a good feeling to look at is and see that there is no corrosion to be seen.

But I don't have any illusions. There is no corrosion to be seen on my truck now but nature is working and rust will come back. Old truck rust always comes back. It may be already developing in unseen places like under the cab, inside the fenders, under the cargo bed and so on. I can't do anything about that but I can keep my eyes open and when I see a little bubble under the paint I can repair it immediately or wait another couple of years.

One important tip to help with the prevention of corrosion: keep your truck inside your garage. This way water will only attack it when the truck is driven in the rain or when washed.

So, my advice is for you to keep your eyes open and once in a while do an inspection of your truck to see if there are any rust spots developing. And remember these words: you can wait a while until you're good and ready to tackle the problem but make sure you do it or you'll lose your truck to rust.

The removal of old truck rust doesn't have to be hard or expensive though. In our next article we'll tell you how to remove rust with household vinegar!

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Old Truck Rust - Part 1 - What it is and What it Does to Metals

Old truck rust is a problem that has to be understood in order to be controlled. Rust is a general term for a series of iron oxides, usually red oxides, formed by the reaction of iron with oxygen in the presence of water or air moisture.

Several forms of rust are distinguishable visually and when we first notice its presence the tendency is for us to think our truck is gone. Oxidation is a serious problem but it's not the end of the world.

First we have to understand that old truck rust forms under different circumstances and consists of hydrated iron oxides.

Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys, such as steel. Other metals undergo equivalent corrosion, but the resulting oxides are not commonly called rust. Given sufficient time, oxygen, and water, any iron mass eventually converts entirely to rust and disintegrates in the form of small flakes. Old truck rust is invincible.

This is a natural process and it is present in big buildings, in famous bridges, in the gigantic oil drilling platforms offshore and in modern cars too. Even the Eiffel Tower, in Paris, France and the Golden Gate Bridge, in San Francisco, California are under constant attack by corrosion.

Your old truck is certainly under the permanent attack of the two elements that are the main culprits for old truck corrosion: water and air. I wish I had better news but the fact of the matter is that there is no way to cure this. The most you can do is to keep your eyes open and try to prevent corrosion.

But how do you prevent old truck rust?

There are several ways to prevent corrosion involving chemistry, electricity and so on. But, for all practical purposes, from the point of view of the owner of an old truck, painting is the way. Keep in mind, though that you have to make absolutely sure that there are no rust spots in the surface to be painted. You have to have the surface completely cleaned and down to bare metal.

If possible, make sure the other side of the surface is free of corrosion too. It makes no sense to clean and paint one side of the metal if the other side is being attacked by rust.

If the corrosion has eaten part of the surface you have to patch a new piece of metal there, clean well and apply paint. There are several products in the market that can help to prevent corrosion. None of them will prevent corrosion completely and none of them will prevent corrosion from coming back in the future but they can delay the process and this helps. You can do some research on paints also and find our which product is better recommended for your specific case.

The type of steel used in old trucks is much thicker then the metal used in modern cars. That gives us a slight advantage since the corrosion will take a little longer to bore through. But that doesn't mean that the steel used in old trucks would resist corrosion. It doesn't and it can't.

Now you know what corrosion is and what it can do to metals. On my next article I will tell you about my own experience with rust that attacked my old Chevy truck.

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Medium Duty Ford Diesel Trucks - Go For the Very Best

There are many medium duty Ford diesel trucks to choose from. These trucks are very useful for industrial uses, such as for carrying construction materials, or for use in farming or ranching environments. They also feature a very good towing capacity.

The first generation, built between 1999 and 2004, was comprised of the F250 and F350 "Super Duty" models. The engines offered were either a 6.0L Powerstroke V8 or a 7.3L Powerstroke V8. These trucks come with either a 6 speed manual transmission or a 5 speed automatic transmission. There are three different cab options offered: Standard, which provides room for 2 to 3 passengers with two doors, SuperCab with seating for 5 to 6 passengers with 2 smaller rear doors, and the CrewCab, which has four full-sized doors and room for 5 to 6 people.

The second generation of medium duty Ford diesel trucks saw many changes being done, both to the exterior design of the truck, as well as to certain other components, such as the engine and the transmission. As the Ford Motor Company discovered that the majority of trucks in this category were also used for towing on a refular basis, the overall towing capacity was increased as well. Other changes included a higher amp alternator, thicker frame, upgraded high-quality disk brakes and an upgraded transmission.

In this generation of trucks, there are 2 transmissions available. The standard M6OD 6 speed manual transmission and the heavy duty TorqShift 5R110W 5 speed automatic that includes a feature called tow/haul. This helps increase control when towing larger loads on steep grades and maximizes the torque that is available. It also uses engine breaking when descending, in order to greatly extend the lifetime of the brakes and improve control of the vehicle. Ford also included a power take-off that lets the vehicle provide direct engine power for accessory equipment. The estimated towing capacity for the Ford F350 Super Duty truck is 19200 lbs, which is more than other trucks in its class.

From 2008, the line up was redesigned, making it the third generation. It features a new 6.4L Power Stroke V8 Diesel engine. This new generation includes the models F250, F350 as well as the new F450 Super Duty. The overall body of the truck was changed slightly as well. Ford also introduced a "Rapid-Heat Supplemental Cab Heater" available on its line up of Super Duty trucks and automatic transmissions. This is useful in the colder months of winter, as it quickly raises the temperature in the cabin to a comfortable level, until the engine itself warms up enough to be able to do it.

The Ford F-450 Super Duty truck comes with the optional High Capacity Trailer Tow package, which increases its gross combined weight rating to 33 000 lb as well as the towing capacity to 24 500 lb.

Overall medium duty Ford diesel trucks have always been a great choice, due to their durability, their towing and payload capacities and innovative design features.

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Trucks - Heavy Duty Vehicles!

The word 'truck' is believed to be a derivative of Greek word - "trochos" which takes the meaning of a wheel. Lorry is yet another term used in this conjunction in United Kingdom whereas wagons with large wheels are known as trucks in North America. Pickup trucks, semi trucks, GMC trucks are the variants that are available. In countries like New Zealand and Australia a small vehicle with open back is known as 'ute' (abbreviated form of 'utility vehicle') or also known as pick-up. In the US only large vehicles used in commercial purposes are called as trucks.

The various important parts of the truck are the Engine, the Drive train and the frame.

Engine: An Engine forms the most important part of a truck as it decides the running capability of a truck and has to be carefully chosen to match the application for which the truck is intended to be used. Gasoline engines are generally used by small trucks like the pickups or SUVs (Sport Utility Vehicles) and also by the medium-duty trucks. However heavier trucks generally use four stroke turbo intercooler diesel engines and highway trucks employ locomotive-type engines which are either two-stroke or a V12 Detroit diesel engine. Most of the truck manufacturers in North America outsource the engine, whereas companies like Volvo and Mack Trucks use their own engines. Euro 5 regulations are complied with by all the truck engines in European nations in the interest of the environment.

Drive Train: Light duty trucks use transmission method similar to that of the cars which are either automatic or manual with synchornisers. Heavier trucks however use manual transmission without synchroniser that is less bulky. Crash boxes (transmissions without synchronizers) have a requirement of employing double clutching for every shift, called as "floating". Generally North American setups include 9,10,13,15 and 18 speed levels. Semi-automatic or fully automatic transmission system is generally preferred to reduce the fuel consumption. In European market the gears may be of 8, 10 and 12 in case of manual transmission while for automatic transmission it might range anywhere between 5-12 gears. The trucks generally have range shift pattern in the gear system.

Frame: Two parallel boxed rails held together by cross members are the main composites of the frame of a truck. They may also be called as ladder frames since they resemble that of a ladder when tipped on end. Crossmembers are mostly attached to frame rails by using rivets or bolts, but sometimes may be welded in case of heavy duty application. The material used to make frame is generally steel but aluminum can also be a substitute to it.

Although trucks contribute to some pollution, they eject fewer air polluting emissions when compared to a car or any other vehicle, but still it contributes to a high level of sound pollution.

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Learn About Basic Safety Towing Tips

Towing services is a serious business. It requires expertise not only in business operations but in actual driving skills as well. If you want to engage in the towing enterprise, you should be aware that towing requires extreme safety precautions. Below are some of the most notable safety tips that tow truck drivers and operators should be aware of:

There should be no passengers in the trailers

When towing any kind of vehicle, it is extremely important to make sure that there are no person sitting in the trailer. If you will allow passengers in the trailers, you will not only put them in danger, you are also inviting accidents to happen while the vehicle is being towed.

Ensure proper trailer loading

If you load the vehicle properly on your trailer, you can avoid sways and shakes when driving. When you load the towed vehicle, you should make sure that the heavy part lies ahead of the axle. You should also make sure that the load on both sides are balanced. In order to prevent shifting, make sure that chains, hooks, and slides are attached firmly to the trailer.

You should also check the tongue weight. This refers to the downward force that is produced by the trailer to the hitch ball. Most of the time, the tongue weight is equivalent to 10 to 15 percent of Gross Trailer Weight or the actual weight of the trailer once it is fully loaded. Note that if the towed vehicle tongue weight is too low, the trailer may sway. However, if the tongue weight is quite heavy, the trailer might not be able to function properly. Make sure that the trailer is heavier on the front side.

Proper driving

You have to note that when you are driving a tow truck, you are not just driving the truck alone. The vehicle that you are towing will affect your driving performance. Bear in mind that the weight of a trailer will inevitably affect the acceleration, speed, and brake power of your tow truck.

As such, when you are driving a towing truck, you have to make sure that you provide additional time whenever you pass, stop, or change lanes. If you can, avoid passing on rough roads. If you need to pass by such roads, make sure that you drive slowly as severe road bumps cannot only damage your towing vehicle, it will also damage the trailer.

If the trailer starts to sway, stop and make the necessary changes

In general, sways cannot be completely prevented. It may be caused by a sudden wind gust, or a sudden change in the speed of the tow truck. However, if the trailer sways excessively, you will have to stop and check the cause of the swaying. You should check the trailer load and secure the harness equipment.

Some Points to Consider Before Buying Your Truck

The following items need your utmost attention:

a. Your budget should be a prime consideration when buying trucks. You should note that as compared to most types of vehicles offered in the market, the base model compact trucks are considered as one of the most affordable types of vehicles. However, the premium models usually amount to $30,000 while the full-size trucks may fall within the price range of $20,000 to $50,000.

b. Engine and fuel efficiency should be assessed especially if you are planning to put up a trucking business. Bear in mind that most compact trucks will have five or six-cylinder engines. These engines can produce significant mileage. As for the full-size trucks, most utilize V8 or V10 engines. For the best results, pick those trucks that run on diesel engines since these will provide excessive towing power in addition to great mileage.

c. Another thing to consider is the set of safety equipment that the truck offers. Just like in the case of other types of four wheel drives, most trucks are equipped with the basic set of safety equipment such as seatbelts and the front airbags. However, it will be better if you pick new models that have advanced safety systems that include side curtain airbags and the stability control.

c. Check the drivetrain of the truck. Both mid-size and full-size trucks offer manual and automatic transmissions in addition to the two- and four-wheel drive. For the best results, it will be better if you opt for those trucks that provide traction aids such as the locking differentials and the electronic traction controls.

d. If you are planning to put up a towing service company, the towing ability should be your foremost consideration. Take note that most compact trucks are capable of towing vehicles that have weights that fall within the range of 3,000 to 7,000 pounds. As for full-size trucks, they can tow vehicles that weigh as much 12,000 pounds, provided that they are equipped with high power engines and superior suspension configurations. If not, the usual towing capability will just be within the range of 8,000 and 10,000 pounds.

e. You should also examine the interior space of the truck. Basically, trucks have three body styles - regular, extended, and crew. Those trucks with the regular cab have two doors and a passenger capacity for two. In the case of the extended cabs, there is an additional storage space along with extra passenger capacity of three. If you opt for crew cabs, your truck will then have four doors and a passenger capacity of six. Opt for those trucks that have rear clamshell doors.

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Car Repair Prices: There Are No Honest Mechanics

I enjoy reading the tips and suggestions on finding an honest or good mechanic. These can be found on various government and consumer websites. I think the same guy wrote all the suggestions for all 50 states.

You’ll be advised to check around by word of mouth (WOM), and make sure that you see ASE or AAA posted somewhere. Check out the facility—makes sure it’s clean. Check with the BBB. You’ll be acronymed and common sense suggested to death. None of it will really help.

I know AAA certified shops that can barely change oil. I have worked with ASE certified technicians that frightened me with their diagnostic theories. I know shops that are consider great that have serious BBB scars. And WOM is actually the worst method. I have heard clients rave about how wonderful a particular shop is when I KNOW it’s run by a thief!

Tips and suggestions only scratch at the surface of the automotive underworld. Sure, some tips might help. What’s really needed is experienced insider information. The consumer needs to know what really goes on, and how to identify what’s really going on in order to make sense of auto repair costs. With the right guidance, automotive customers can estimate car repair costs on their own.

Relying on tips and suggestions is like relying on a blind man to lead you across a major interstate. You might make it, but wouldn't you rather follow a traffic cop.

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Car Repair Prices: Five Money-Saving Tips You Must Know Before Having Your Vehicle Serviced Anywhere

1. Never accept Ball Park Estimates. Be on alert when you’re told: “About $800 and your car will be perfect.” Or, “It should run around $200 bucks.” If you went to a hotel and asked how much a room was for the night and the clerk said “Oh…I’d say around $200 bucks.” Would you accept that? Of course not!
2. When service centers suggest additional work, ask them to prioritize the suggestions in terms of immediacy and safety. Have them fax or e-mail an itemized estimate for your review.
3. When in doubt—WAIT! If you are feeling pressured by a service representative to authorize work or charges of which you are unsure, wait until you have all the information you need. Get a second opinion if necessary. Service representatives are great at phrasing automotive concerns in a very ominous light.
4. Get all estimates in writing, and itemized. This will allow you to scrutinize the charges. It will also let your service representative know that you mean business—fair business. Just asking for the break down will cause service representatives to think twice about price-gouging you. If a service center can’t provide a complete and professional estimate quickly, go somewhere else.
5. Be nice, sincere, and shrewd. Seriously, service representatives will go to bat for you if you treat them with courtesy and respect...

Here's an example:

When I was a flat rate technician, I found a “note to the technician” in the client’s car I was servicing. It stated (paraphrased):

“Dear Technician, you folks have always done an incredible job on all my cars. I am sorry to be so picky, but my car is brand new and it has an irritating rattle at 65mph from inside the dash.”

Dash rattles on new cars are every technician’s nightmare. They’re time consuming, and they don’t pay. These types of concerns frequently get written off as “No Problem Found,” or “Could not Duplicate.” However, in this case, I spent 2 hours diagnosing and repairing this client’s rattle. I was only paid .3 hours for the repair, which amounted to $4.33 in my paycheck, but I didn’t mind.

The point is: when you treat your service representatives with respect, you’re less likely to get price-gouged, and more likely to get your car fixed correctly the first time.

IMPORTANT: Having said this, being nice does not mean agreeing with everything your representative tells you. If you’re always agreeing to your service representative’s recommendations, he’ll keep making them—that’s how he’s paid.

Even if he seems like a friend, it saves to be shrewd and to ask questions. In terms of being nice, though—everybody likes to help the nice guy whenever possible.

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Auto Repair: The Top Ten Mistakes Made by Your Mechanic

Number One: Not confirming the concern. Confirming a repair concern is a basic diagnostic principle frequently overlooked. To fix a problem, the first thing one must do is recognize it.

Number Two: Insufficient Road Testing. The importance of a thorough road test (even for an oil change) is well documented in automotive training manuals. Yet, many technicians consider driving the vehicle into the shop good enough.

Number Three: Misdiagnosing. For the above reasons and a multitude of others, your vehicle is misdiagnosed more often than not. Mechanics will spend hours chasing the wrong problem, wasting your time and money.

Number Four: Throwing parts at a problem. To compensate for lack of skills, mechanics often just throw parts at the problem in the hope of getting lucky. It’s common to hear mechanics say:

I replaced this, this, this, and that, and the problem’s still not fixed.

This goes right back to mistake number one: confirm the problem with diagnostics, then proceed.

Number Five: Not addressing primary concerns first. Technicians often spend an inordinate amount of time looking for easy sells that will fatten their paychecks. There’s nothing wrong with this provided there’s no charge for the inspection, it doesn’t conflict with your time, and the upsell suggestions are valid (they’re frequently not). However, this type of free inspection and the subsequent upselling too often overshadows the primary concern. So…what’s wrong with my car?

Number Six: Overconfidence. Too often unqualified technicians get in over their heads. Rather than defer to a more experienced technician or facility, they often keep going and do more harm. How’s it go…The road to hell is paved with good intentions?

Number Seven: Taking shortcuts. In the ongoing effort to beat the clock, technicians will create a host of problems: breaking parts, snapping bolts, short circuiting sensitive electronics. Refer to Auto Repair: How Can They Screw Up an Oil Change @ RepairTrust.com or EzineArticles.com for a great discussion.

Number Eight: Poor Repairs. Whether through incompetence or laziness, mechanics frequently don’t do repairs correctly. It’s often sloppy work. Forgotten bolts, parts not lined up correctly, or components not re-installed properly are common. It gets worse with computer repairs: incorrect software programming, coding, and resynchronization protocols are just a few.

Number Nine: Not confirming repairs. After a repair it’s important to re-check to ensure that the problem is indeed fixed. Too often parts are thrown in and the car is pulled out only to pull in another victim.

Number Ten: Making a mess. If the above nine mistakes weren’t bad enough, there are now greasy fingerprints on the hood and steering wheel, and two big greasy boot marks on the carpet.

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Car Tips on How to Replace Spark Plugs

Changing spark plugs is a large part of a regular tune up, but did you know that you can perform this easy maintenance job yourself? A spark plug is basically a high voltage bridge that electricity passes through. They are very cheap to buy and easy to install. It does not hurt to replace them each year; doing so can increase the efficiency of your engine and even help out with gas mileage a bit. This procedure is not difficult as long as you follow the directions. The tools you will need include a ratchet wrench, a 12 inch socket extension, and a spark plug socket for your vehicle.

Your spark plugs may be easily located if you follow the thick, black cables As a rule of thumb, 4 cylinder engines have their spark plugs at the top of the engine in a row, 8 cylinder engines have their spark plugs 4 on each side, and 6 cylinder engines can have them either way. Spark plugs are placed in a specific order, so it does matter in which order you place them and take them out. Starting at the end of the row, grab the spark plug as close to the engine as you can, and pull it out. If you grab them too far up you could damage the cord and have to replace it.

If you have not already done so, place the spark plug socket and extension on your ratchet. Inside of the spark plug socket, you should see black rubber or foam on the other end. This is useful because it holds the spark plug into place as you take it out of the engine. Set your ratchet to loosen, and place it over the end of the plug. You can now easily remove the plug. After you have removed each plug, it is a good idea to examine it. There should be a little grime and dirt on the end, but if you have too much it could be a sign of trouble.

When you buy spark plugs for your cars nowadays, they will usually come already gapped. This makes things a whole lot easier. In order to place the new spark plug in the hole, place the plug wire end of the plug into the socket. Now hold the extension and place it in as far as it will go. Be careful while doing so though, as you don't want to damage the plug. You can now screw in the new plug using just your hands. You will only be able to do this to a point though, and then you will have to use the wrench. Once it is in, you may put the wire back on.

Now once the first one is done, you just have to repeat the process with each of the remaining spark plugs. Don't worry; it gets easier each time you do it. If you pulled out all of the spark plugs at once, you will have a difficult time knowing which cable goes where and things will not go well if you place the wrong cables on the plugs.

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Rancho QuickLIFT Shocks - An Easy Way For a Quick Lift

Rancho quickLIFT shocks are the quick way to add lift to your vehicle. The quickLIFT is both a suspension lift and a high-performance shock absorber built into one unit. Rancho designed each quickLIFT shock for the vehicle upon which it will be installed meaning they're not a one-size-fits-all solution. quickLIFT shocks offer up to 2.5-inches of lift while providing optimal driving quality and comfort.

Rancho quickLIFT shocks work on a simple engineering concept of preloading the vehicle's existing coil spring. Preloading the spring will push the suspension downward (away from the chassis) thus resulting in lift -- true suspension lift.

quickLIFT shocks are part of the myRIDE family of Rancho shocks which means they feature the same 9-position adjustable shock absorbency as the RS9000XL line of shocks. They can be set soft for freeway driving, firm for off-road driving, or anywhere in between. It also means they're compatible with the Rancho RS999705 myRIDE wireless remote control so you can adjust them without exiting the vehicle.

This quickLIFT shock offers several advantages.

1. The vehicle's factory coil spring is re-used. This eliminates the need to buy additional (potentially expensive) parts and retains much of the factory drive quality because the ride is still dependent on the factory spring.
2. Provides up to 2.5-inches of true suspension lift. This levels the vehicle and allows the fitment of larger tires without the need of a full, differential-drop or axle-drop suspension lift.
3. Adjustable shock absorbency with nine levels of firmness.
4. No cutting or welding necessary like other suspension lifts.
5. Can be installed by the "home mechanic" and installation takes just a few hours.

If you're looking to add some height to your truck or SUV without spending big bucks on a fully engineered suspension lift, then Rancho quickLIFT shocks may be just what you want. They allow for a quick lift with superb shock absorbency control.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

Mobile Oil Change Companies Need a Competitive Advantage - Case Study

All businesses need to differentiate and all businesses need to find their competitive advantage so let's take a look at a mobile oil change business, a small business in the service sector. How can a mobile automotive service business get a competitive advantage over the competition? Remember there is virtually no market in the United States that does not have multiple players in the sector.

A mobile oil change business has to compete with large box stores which often have the same services, as well the numerous quick oil change and lube companies. Now some might say that it is quite the competitive advantage for a mobile operator business to be able to go to its customers. And many might also say that this is a competitive advantage due to the fact that it saves time and money. But can a such a business really compete with a big box store that offers oil changes?

For instance, Wal-Mart has auto services at their super stores and generally their prices under $15.00 for an oil change. With the cost of fuel to drive the service van or unit around town you can see that it might cost $15.00 just to deliver the unit to the customer's car. So whereas the portable operation may give a competitive advantage and be more desirable by the customer, is very difficult to make a profit if you lower your price to compete with the other companies in town.

Additionally most markets in the United States of America have more than one service of this type competing on the same turf or territory. So, the competitive advantage may not be quite as simple as you might think. So, be careful not to assume a competitive advantage that turns out to be a competitive disadvantage. Think on this.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

Fitting a RC Nitro Engine

ENGINE - THE FIT(revised)

Technotes (7/08)

The Engine Analysis Program

How to Measure the Seal of the Liner & Piston:(The Fit)

THE BASIS OF THIS ARTICLE:

25+ years ago, a very accomplished model boater (Ed Hughey) told me of a way he tested his engines to determine if they had The Perfect Fit. Since he was by far, the BEST MODELER at that time, I listened.

THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF BUILDING ANY NITRO PERFORMANCE MODEL ENGINE !!!!

FITTING THE PISTON:

You have to make the piston as round as the liner. There are 2 effective ways to make the piston round.

1. Lapping the piston to the liner with 1200 grit non-imbedding garnet. Be careful and only do a slight amount of lapping so you don't eliminate the proper tightness and fit of the liner/piston.

2. The other BEST WAY to make the piston round, is to use a Helical Lap. There are only a few people I know who have this capability. If you are interested in having your liner and piston fit, write to me at fit@rcboat.com and it will be automatically re-directed to Norm Doerr who has all of the helical laps that I used to own. He can also sell you a small quantity of the Non-Imbedding Garnet Lapping Compound.

NOTE: NO AMOUNT of running in of an engine will assure you of a perfect liner/piston fit. It possibly might happen, but doesn't over 80%+ (I guessed at the percentage, it might be over 95%+) of the time. You might get a good engine by running it in, but you will get a SUPERB DOMINATING ENGINE by following these guidelines.

A little side note of interest: I helped build 3 engines for a close friend to try to qualify for the RC 1/8 Car World Championships held in Indy a LONG time ago. He made the A Main which is almost unheard of. The ONLY things that were done to this engine was the sequence indicated above and below.

The fit of the liner to the Crankcase is also very important to the perfect fit. The liner should be placed into the crankcase so that the fit is not forced but a snug slip fit. If the liner does not slip in and out of the case smoothly, you should LIGHTLY lap the liner to the case. The underside lip on the liner should also be lapped to the top of the case so that there is no distortion when you tighten down the head. I use a non-imbedding garnet lapping compound which is 1200 grit (available from the above e-mail address). You should have a little bit of this compound to use for MANY applications for our hobby. The fit of the head button into the liner is also very important. On some engines the machining cutter leaves a radius where the head button fits into the liner so as to spread the top of the liner when tightened. BE SURE NOT TO LAP THE PART OF THE HEAD BUTTON THAT STICKS INTO THE LINER - ONLY THE PART THAT STRIKES THE TOP FLANGE OF THE LINER. I also add a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of Dow Corning Silicone #738 RTV around the liner and under the lip of the liner when placed into the engine crankcase. This material is white and does not harden. It semi-hardens and seals. I apply a VERY VERY SMALL amount to the underside of the liner top flange to contact the case and form a seal of the liner to the case. This will not allow any crankcase pressure to escape from under this flange.

I assume that I don't have to tell you to use a toothbrush, lots of water, and dishwashing detergent to clean off the Garnet Lapping Compound and any dirt and residue from all parts, BEFORE assembling the engine.

THE TEST OF THE FIT:

Now to the way to test the fit of the piston/liner, to see if you have a great fit and seal. I assemble the engine and apply a drop of "silicone platelets" to the piston surface on initial assembly. (You can get this at Boca Bearings Midas Touch Lubricant) After I turn the engine over several times to coat the piston and imbed the Teflon Platelets slightly, I put in some methanol to clean out most of the oil residue. I put in the Glo Plug and test the engine for seal by rocking the engine back and forth over top dead center by holding the flywheel. If you can't rock it back and forth over top dead center without loosing the seal and leaking down for at least 20 bumps, you don't have a good fit. After you find that you have an engine with the great fit, run the engine in your model getting the engine VERY WARM for a short period of time and then running rich for a short period, then running VERY WARM, etc. Several cycles like this will allow the metal of the piston and liner to find their set and you should have a GREAT ENGINE. I would suggest that you re-try the bump test AFTER you run in the engine to make sure that the seal lasts. This test method will be one of the best tips you will ever learn and will accurately predict the success of your engine build. This fit is "Far More Important" than any timing numbers or ANYTHING ELSE, and will be one of the primary indicators of great performance. This test takes into consideration the liner/piston roundness, the seal of the liner to the case, and the seal of the head to the liner.

BONUS: (REFITTING AN OLD PISTON TO THE LINER)

When your piston to liner fit becomes less that perfect, it is EASY to refit the piston to the liner. Buy yourself a very good tubing cutter from Sears ( http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00951691000P?vName=Tools ) about $32.00. It will be a once in a lifetime purchase that you will use over and over. Don't ever ever ever ever use this cutter for anything else. The wheel that comes with the cutter will last almost indefinitely, but you might pick up a pack of spares. Keeping the cutter razor sharp is critical.

OK, how to use this tool.

Most pistons have an oil groove at the top of the piston. It is usually VERY NEAR the top of the piston. If the piston does not have an oil groove, it is easy to make one with the tube cutter. The cutter will EXTRUDE the oil groove making the piston tighter in the liner. It is CRITICAL to be very careful here not to get the piston too tight. You want to push the piston up into the liner and when it stops, look into the exhaust port and see the wrist pin in the MIDDLE of the exhaust port window. That is about how tight you want the piston to fit. You can re-fit the piston over and over this way and keep a great seal. The fit will go away quicker than if the piston was perfect to start with, but this will recover a loose fitting piston/liner.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

3M Clear Bra Paint Protection - The Choice is Clear!

In life we are taught to protect our assets. Assets are defined as items of ownership convertible into cash; total resources of a person or business, as cash, notes and accounts receivable, securities, inventories, goodwill, fixtures, machinery, or real estate. So therefore your assets could be countless but also vary by person. However a common asset that people have today is a car. It is very important that we keep our car protected the best we can since most of us would like to keep it for quite a while. Let's face it, no one gets truly excited about getting body work done to our car. In the first place it is expensive and takes time away from our already hectic lives. Plus it can cause you to lose some resale value if that time comes. The most common incidents occur on your bumper, and for the most part the damage could have been avoided in the first place.

Statistics to show the need to protect your car's bumper:

36% of all minor auto body damage is to the front or rear bumper. More than a third!

Fully 12% of Americans had minor damage repaired on their vehicle in the last year alone [Or,] One out of every eight Americans had minor damage repaired!

So, if you invest in something to protect your bumper it would keep you out of the percentage of people who needed minor damage repaired.

I know in your head you are already thinking of that thick, bulky, black leather or vinyl bra that you have seen on cars in the past. Well, that is not what you should invest in for your car. Those black bras are a thing of the past and what you should invest in is 3M clear bra paint protection! The 3M clear bra is a thin, clear, transparent film of urethane laminate which protects the cars bumper, grill, head lights, hood, fenders and side mirrors. The best part is that it is nearly impossible to see. Also not only does the 3M clear bra look better, it is better for your car also. The fact is that the older vinyl bras are thicker and could protect your car from larger objects but they also can cause damage. Those old vinyl bras can be very difficult to remove or put in place. Scratches to the cars clear coat can occur during the removal or placement of them. They are also not intended to be left on for long periods of time since moisture gets trapped between the cover and the paint. This can cause a cloudy or hazy look to the paints clear coat. It's not good if what you're using to protect your car is causing damage to your car.

The cost of getting the 3M clear bra paint protection is actually not that high. Also if you consider what the costs of body work or repair is after the fact, it will equal out to less in the end!

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

Do Your Vehicle Brakes Squeal?

Does your vehicle squeal when you apply the brakes? This could be the sound of your "chirper", a signaling device built into the system to warn you of worn brake pads. A squealing or grinding noise also is characteristic of the new, semi-metallic friction material used on brake pads and linings. This material replaces the hazardous asbestos previously used.

Brake performance on vehicles of recent years is significantly improved, as is the service life of braking system parts. Unfortunately consumer attitude toward preventive maintenance has not kept pace with technology. A national consumer survey showed vehicle neglect is on the rise even though nearly half of motorists ranked brake failure as their number one fear among driving emergencies.

The USGAO reports that states without vehicle safety inspection programs had accident rates 16% higher than those with some inspection program.

Whether or not your vehicle's brakes are inspected periodically, be aware of the signs of brake trouble and take corrective measures at once.

Listen for unusual noises when brakes are applied. To hear properly, try applying brakes at slow speeds with windows down.

Brake work performed on time saves money as well as lives. Some owners, to squeeze more miles out of their worn brake pads, have been known to disable the "chirper". This is a terrible case of false economy. In addition to affecting your safety driving, metal-to-metal wear of rotors or drums adds hundreds of dollars to a brake system overhaul.

If brake fluid needs filling frequently, correct the leak.

If vehicle pulls to one side, if the brakes shudder or if the pedal pulsates, have a repair shop check out the trouble.

If the pedal fades, feels spongey or falls to the floor under steady foot pressure, take the vehicle in for service.

Invest in the best quality brake work you can obtain. You do care about yourself and those you transport don't you?

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

10 Point Checklist to Help Your Car Pass Its MOT

Every year the motorist is faced with the ordeal of the MOT test, unless their car is less than three years old. The purpose of an MOT is to ensure the vehicle complies with road safety and environmental standards. Without it car owners are unable to obtain a tax disc for driving on public roads.

But what does the MOT tester look out for? Is it car tyres or fuel emissions? It can become expensive when the vehicle fails and needs to be re-tested. To help achieve a first time pass, this 10 point checklist highlights the main components that are included in an MOT test:

1. Brakes

The car's brakes are tested on a 'roller brake tester' to assess their condition, performance and efficiency. Brakes that 'lock up' when applied will fail. Other areas to watch out for are loose brake pedals and signs of leaking brake fluid.

2. Doors and Mirrors

Ensure the doors open and close correctly, from the inside and the outside of the vehicle. Car locks need to work adequately. Wing and rear view mirrors must be present and in good condition. A cracked wing mirror will result in a fail.

3. Exhaust System and Emissions

The car will need to pass specific exhaust emission requirements, depending on its age and fuel type. The exhaust system must not have holes or leaks, often caused by rust.

4. Car Bodywork

Excessive rust corrosion, damage or sharp edges on the car's bodywork will result in a fail.

5. Wheels and Car Tyres

The tread depth on a car tyre must be a minimum of 1.6mm. The car tyre needs to be the correct type for the vehicle and have no signs of excessive wear or damage. It is recommended to consult a car tyres specialist to check this. Ensure all the wheel nuts are present as any missing will result in a fail. Spare tyres are not tested.

6. Windscreen, Wipers and Washer

The wiper blades need to be in good condition and the windscreen washer must contain fluid. The windscreen cannot have any large cracks and must have clear visibility.

7. Lights and Indicators

All lights and indicators need to work correctly, including the hazard lights. Check that the headlamps dip to the correct angle and are not loose.

8. Seats and seatbelts

Ensure all seats are secure in the upright position. It is compulsory for seatbelts to be fitted in the front and back of a car. They must be the correct type and in good, working condition.

9. Steering, suspension and horn

All three need to be in good condition and work correctly. Make sure the horn is the right type for the vehicle. Ensure the wheels are correctly aligned and the car tyre pressures are correct, as these can affect the vehicle's steering.

10. Registration Plate and Vehicle Identification Number

The registration plate needs to be in the correct format, legible and in good condition. Every car used after the 1st August 1980 must have its vehicle identification number clearly displayed.

Lights, brakes, suspension and car tyres are the four most common reasons why a car will fail its MOT. This checklist is intended as a guide to improve your cars chance of passing. If in any doubt we recommend consulting your local garage before taking the MOT test.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

How to Plug a Tire

When it comes to your Toyota car, you are going to want to make sure that you are never left without a spare tire. However, not everyone has a spare tire when it comes to an emergency. The good news is that they make tire plugs for cars. These are little kits that you can use to plug up holes in all of the popular Toyota brands, including the Corolla, Highlander, Supra, and many more.

The first thing that you have to do is buy one of these tire plug kits to keep in your car at all times. A lot of people like keeping these in the car anyway, because they are much smaller than a spare tire. Not only that, but they are a lot easier to use; meaning that just about anyone can use them. Something else that you may want to have is a can of compressed air. A lot of times, there are cans that you can buy that have compressed air in them with a solution that goes in the tire. Although this kind of can would not fix a big hole in a tire like a plug would, it would help a plug out. Not only that, but if you have a hole in your tire, you are not going to be able to drive on it after you patch it up, because there would be no air pressure left. These cans can put air pressure back into your tire to make it drivable again.

Steps to Using a Tire Plug

The first step is to find the foreign object that got stuck in your tire. It is a good idea to pull this object out with a pair of pliers. Make sure you do this in the same direction as the tire's tread goes. Next, you may want to use something to mark the spot of the hole so that you do not lose it. Next, you will need to jack the car up and remove the tire if the puncture is in a spot that is hard to locate. Also, you may want to do this so that you can move the tire to a safe location away from the side of the road.

At this point, you will want to take the rasp that is included in your kit, quickly insert it, and remove it from the hole. See, this is going to make the hole rough. You will want to do this so that the cement that comes with the patch kit can easily bond to the tire. Now you need to locate the plug that comes with the kit you have. You may also want to pull out the cement at this time. Put on the cement, and use the insertion tool to stick the plug into the hole. Be sure to leave about ½ inch of the plug still outside of the tire. After that, you will have to pull the insertion tool out very straight and very quickly. When you pull it out be sure to leave the plug inside.

After all of that, you will want to cut the plug so that it becomes flush with the tire and the surrounding tire tread. If you have removed the tire from the Toyota, then it would now be time to put it back on. After replacing the tire, you will want to read the directions on the back of the compressed air to fill back up the tire.

A Quick Note about Plug Kits

Please note that after patching up your tire you are going to want to get a new one just as soon as possible. Although plug kits work really well, they are not a permitted fix by any means to a blown out tire. Driving on them for long time spans is not safe. Be sure to read in your plug kit directions about how long you can drive on these plugs. Some of them only last long enough to get you to the store to get a new tire. There is no reason why you would want to take a chance at blowing out the plug while driving around for too long.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

Restore Your Own Classic Car - Planning Your Build

So you picked out your project car and you are ready to get to work but.....before you break out the tools you need to have a plan. As a Restoration Technician I can tell you from experience that the hardest and often the most expensive restoration is the one without a plan. You don't have to plan every little detail but try to think ahead and cover all the major parts. Think sense-ably, After the body work and primer is laid down is not the time to decide you want to shave door handles. I am sure you have an overall idea of what you want the finished product to look like so now start to research your car and the options that are available. Page through some of the popular magazines for your model car and see what others are doing. Are those million dollar 20" diamond encrusted rims and those monster wide tires going to fit in the wheel wells or are you going to have to relocate the leaf springs, these are the things you have to think about.

How do you want the car to handle? lets face it the 50's ,60's and 70's cars were not corner carving miracles, they were more like over weight pigs! There are tons of options available today to make your car stick to the street but allot of these require modification to the car and the best time to do that is when you are in the metal repair stage. Put some thought into exactly what you want, items like roll cages, wheel tubs, air ride suspensions, and rack and pinion steering all require metal work to be done. Decide what motor you want to put in it because if that motor didn't come in that car you are going to have to fabricate or purchase different motor mounts.

Lets talk a little about some of the trick exterior modifications you can do. The after-market is endless for hot rod parts and with a little ingenuity you can fit almost any part in any car. There are shaved door handle kits that come with every thing you need, there are frenched lighting kits,LED tail light kits, Auto open trunk kits and the list goes on. while these type of things are more for looks they also will require metalwork to fill holes that were left behind and so on. You should also put some thought into the interior because some things like adding an after-market air conditioning unit may require cutting or drilling the fire wall. Different seats may require different mounting holes and you will want to weld up the old holes. These are small things and can be done at the end of the build but why weld around new paint if you don't have to?

Speaking of paint, it doesn't hurt to have an idea of the color you want to paint the car. Just remember that black will show all bodywork faults. You may want to go with metallic, pearls, or even color changers which may look way cool but they are harder to work with thus more expensive. I suggest you pick up a good paint gun and give it a shot yourself with a regular color. It may not sparkle as much as a metallic but it will be much more rewarding when your at the car show and someone asks where you got the paint job and you can say....I did it! And yes....when the time comes I will cover paint and give you some neat tips and tricks for that also.

Now is the time to look for a service manual for your make and model car, you will need it. I am not talking about todays Chilton or Haynes but a real manual that they used during the original assembly. Here are a few good resources for manuals - EBay, autobooksonline.com, books4cars.com, and one I use allot - autobooksbishko.com

Well, now you should have a basic idea of what you need to think about so get some paper and a pen and make your list. The next article will start to cover the dirty part, the disassembly. I will be giving you some inside tricks that restoration experts use to keep track of all those parts and pieces.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

Maintaining the Peak Performance of Your Car's Battery

For those of you who are first time DIYs, the battery is one of the integral components of your car; it is rechargeable and is the power source of the ignition system and other electrical devices in your car.

Initially there's the maintenance free and low-maintenance types to choose from. A maintenance free battery is sealed and will not require replenishing the battery fluids over a long period of time while the low-maintenance type requires constant check up and replenishing once a drop in battery fluid levels can be seen. Battery fluid (Alkaline) can easily be bought at local gas stations and car yards or you can use distilled water as a substitute.

In layman's terms the battery is the heart of your car but is often times the most neglected simply because nowadays it's bought "maintenance free."

Recent trends and technological advancements have made maintenance free batteries a standard on every vehicle out in the market today.

Don't get the impression that since you've read on the label that it's maintenance free, you will just simply put it in its place and forget about it. Your car's battery is not entirely that. Just like any other sensitive equipment of your car, it also requires your constant care and attention for it to function well.

Here are the basic maintenance tips that will certainly save you a lot of trouble and will not leave you clueless by the roadside while on a very important trip.

As a rule before doing maintenance checks, always see to it to disconnect the clamps off the terminals to avoid untoward injuries from shock.

1. Check the cell casing and cover

Run an ocular inspection on the battery cell casing, box and cover for signs of moisture and pungent acidic smell. These are indicators that your battery is leaking and it needs to be fixed or replaced right away. Maintain caution when handling leaking batteries for hazardous chemicals are present.

2. Clean terminals, clamps and cables

When you happened to see white powdery specks or see colorful substances around the terminals, they are signs of corrosion and needs to be cleaned right away. Make a baking soda solution (1 tablespoon baking soda immersed in 1 cup of water) and with an old toothbrush, clean the terminals, clamps and cables. Also clean the battery cover for accumulated grime and dust.

3. Make sure everything is dry

Make it a point to have everything dry before going further with your check up. With a dry rag, wipe off the remaining dew and moisture from the battery and terminals.

4. Check the wiring and connection

Run a check on the wires and clamps for strips or corrosion. If you have stripped cables, patch the affected part with a good electrical tape or have them replaced by a mechanic. Make sure that the battery is placed securely in its place. If your battery is equipped with a hold down bar, be sure to replace it.

5. Lubricate the terminals

With a lubricant (Petroleum jelly) place a small dab on the terminals. This will keep your cables clean and free of corrosion longer, while making it easier for you to put the cables back on the battery terminal.

6. Change your battery

Change your battery at the maximum of 3 to 3.5 years or after reaching the warranty period. For accidental battery drain (Such as leaving the lights on or stereo on) a lot of auto technicians would just recommend re-charging.

Car battery maintenance is that easy! Do it frequently to extend the life of your battery.

Safe driving.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

How to Clean Your ABS Wheel Sensor

Does your ABS light come on consistently and you do not know what is wrong! Well, when you check your code, you may see that it says that your front wheel sensor is damaged. However, that is not always the case. A lot of times, your ABS wheel sensor is just fine; they just need to be cleaned. Of course, if you take it to a shop, they are going to tell you that you need a new one. So we are going to go over how you can clean your own ABS wheel sensor in your Toyota and save yourself a lot of money. After you clean it, if you are still having the problem, you will need a new one. However, most people have noted that nine times out of ten, this does indeed fix their problem.

First of all, before you get started, you are going to want to make sure you have everything that you need to perform the job. The only things that you are really going to need are a ratchet, jack, wheel lock and, of course, a rag or paper towel to clean it off with. After you have all of this stuff, you can feel free to get started. This should only take you an hour or two to do yourself.

Getting Started On Your Wheel Sensor

First, you have to choose which side you want to get started on. You can choose either the passenger side or the driver side; it does not really matter. However, whichever side you do choose, that is the side that you, of course, need to jack up first. Before you jack up the car, you need to turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that you are working on. For example, if you are working on the driver side, then you are going to want to turn the wheel to the passenger side. Also, when you get it jacked up. You should use a jack stand, not just the jack. You never know how long you will need to have this car jacked up, so you will want the jack stand.

After you turn the wheel and get everything all set up, you will notice that you should be able to locate the ABS wheel sensor very easily. It should be located directly mounted to the knuckle. To take this off, you are going to have to remove the two bolts that are holding them in place. In most Toyota cars, they are 10mm bolts. However, some of them can change from time to time. Overall, there will be about four bolts you have to take out. To do this, just follow the ABS sensor around so that you can remove all of the bolts. When you get the sensor off, you will notice that it is all covered in dirt. Take your rag or paper towel, and start whipping it off. As you do, you will notice that the very middle of it has a sliver strip that you could not see before. A lot of times, dirt blocks this and can cause problems, as you found out. After cleaning it, simply reverse the steps you did to reinstall it. Also, be sure to check both of the front ABS sensors. The one on both sides of the car!

Still Having Problems

Most of the time the procedure discussed above will fix any problem that you are having with your ABS sensor. If you have cleaned both of the front sensors and there are still problems, then you do have a damaged ABS sensor. At this point, you need to get new ones and replace them. If you want, you will be able to install them the same way you cleaned the other ones. However, instead of cleaning the old ones and putting them back on, you can simply put on the new ones. Overall, this is a one day job that can save you a ton of money. Most people do not notice how much money that they can save by doing this themselves until they actually do it!

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

Be a Responsible Driver and Take Care of Your Vehicle

If you are driving a vehicle on the road you need to be a responsible driver. There are many lives at your hands every time you sit behind the wheel. Being responsible means driving with care, using your blinker, stopping completely at stop signs, stopping for yellow instead of speeding up, checking both ways always and it also means taking care of your vehicle. Many times people are the road are driving unsafely because they do not take proper care of their vehicle and they cause accidents on the road. Find out how you can be a responsible driver by taking care of your vehicle.

The first step is making sure that you have clear visibility of the road. There are two things that may be hindering your sight other than your rear view mirror decorations. The first is your windshield. If you windshield is cracked, chipped or broken in any way you are hindering your vision. Also it is very unsafe for the people that are riding in your vehicle since there is a higher chance of it bursting into your vehicle. This can easily be repaired if you get it taken care of right away. Many times the repair specialist can even come to you to fix your windshield. The best part is your insurance will most likely pay for most or all of the costs. However if you wait too long you will have to get it replaced which will cost you more time and money. The next item that could be affecting your visibility is your headlights. Nine out of ten vehicles on the road today have cloudy, hazy, or discolored headlights. This reduces the drivers night vision my 90% at night. This can also be repaired quite easily at an auto body repair shop in a short time. Don't wait when safety is a concern.

Also if you need auto body repairs to your car you are not being responsible driving with your vehicle is such conditions. I have seen cars on the road that literally have pieces of auto body panels or bumpers hanging on by a fraction of a piece. If that piece was to fall off and hit a person or another car it could severely injure them and/or cause a serious accident. Either of which no driver wants to be responsible. So, take your car to an auto body repair shop and they can help get your car in safe driving condition. Since most damaged areas can be repaired instead of replaced you are also being a responsible person for the environment as well.

Remember your vehicle is your responsibility. If any part of your vehicle needs attention you need to be responsible and take care of it as soon as possible. That way you can drive safer and make the roads safer for everyone around you. Even though your one car can't prevent all accidents from happening it is a start to preventing at least one. Find an experienced auto body professional to take care of all your car care needs today.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

How to Change Air Filter in Your Toyota

They say that you should change your car's air filter every 30,000 miles. Some even say that you should change it every 24,000! That is a lot of money that you are going to have to pay out to the mechanics every time you need that changed. The good news is that if you own a Toyota, then it is easy to do yourself. In fact, if you choose to change your Toyota's air filter yourself, you can change it more often. This is good if you live around things like road construction that goes on a lot. No matter what kind of Toyota you have, whether it's a Yaris or a Highlander, you can bet that you will be able to change the air filter yourself!

Getting Started

Whenever you are about to start changing your air filter, it's a good idea to turn off your car, and let it cold down if you have been driving it. To do this, park your car and pop your hood. This will allow the car to cool down a lot faster. Now, after you do that, you need to locate your air filter housing, and remove the cap. Depending on the type of Toyota you have, the housing could be located in different spots. Check your owner's manual if you find yourself having problems. After locating the housing, you are going to notice that the top of it is held in place with a metal clamp. This can be easily removed if you pry it off with a flat head screwdriver. If yours is held on by a screw, you, of course, want to unscrew it before trying to pry it off.

After getting it open, it will be time to remove the old air filter and discard it. This is something that you can do without having to do any kind of special discarding rules. After you take out the old filter, you may notice things like dirt and debris caught up in the filter housing. It is a good idea to clean this kind of stuff out. Of course, you cannot allow any kind of debris to enter into your throttle, nor can you allow it to get into your carburetor. After all, that is why the filter is there in the first place. After cleaning it, you will be able to install the new air filter into the filter housing in the same spot you took the old one out of. At this point, you are going to simply want to go back in reverse of what you did. You are going to want to close back up the housing, put the clamp back on, and put the screw back in it if there was one holding it in place.

Your New Car Filter

After that, you are done. It's a good idea to start up your car and make sure that everything sounds normal. Make sure that you return all screws to the right location and so on. The overall problem that a lot of people have doing this is that they allow dirt to get into the engine. This can cause very bad damage to your whole car. In fact, this can ruin your car. Thus, above all else, you have to make sure that you do not allow anything to get into your engine. Clean the area behind the filter good. As soon as the car is turned on, it is going to start sucking in air from that area. That means that if there is anything in the way, it is going to get sucked in there. That is why the air filter is a very vital part to your car. Overall, this is a very easy thing to do, and most people can do this even if they are not good at working on cars. Just make sure that if you are the one changing the filter, you are changing it every 30,000 miles or so.

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Tips on How to Replace Brake Pads

How to Replace Brake Pads

Brake pads naturally wear out over time. Luckily, it is not as difficult to replace them as you may think. The tools that you need for this project include a lug wrench, c-clamp, adjustable or open wrench, Allen wrenches, hammer, and a bungee cord. When you jack up your car, make sure that you have it supported by blocks or jack stands. It is never safe to work on a car that is supported by a jack only. The first thing you need to do is remove the wheel. The lugs should be easy to take out, it is best to do so from the bottom up.

Next, in order to remove the brake pads you must first remove the brake caliper. The brake caliper can be located just above the lug bolts, sitting on top of the brake disc. There is a bolt that keeps the caliper in place. You can remove it easily using the suitable wrench. There are different types of bolts that could be keeping it in place, so it is a good idea to have different wrenches handy. Now you can pull the caliper off by pulling directly up. You may need to wiggle it a bit in order to loosen it. Now you can sit the caliper some place convenient, or use your bungee cord to tie it up.

Now comes the time to remove the brake pads. They should actually slide right out without giving you any trouble. Remember how they are attached though, because you will need to know this when you are installing the fresh ones. If you are driving an older vehicle, you may need to tap them with your hammer a bit to get them unstuck. There may be some small metal tabs keeping the pads in place as well. If so, make sure you hang onto them; you will need them when you put the new pads in.

Now you can easily slide your new brake pads in, using the metal tabs to keep them in place if applicable. Now with your new pads affixed, you should adjust the brake piston. This piece of equipment adjusts as your pads wear out in order to keep your brakes working efficiently. To readjust it, you need your c-clamp. Put the end of the clamp with the screw against the piston. The other end should rest behind the caliper assembly. Now just slowly tighten the clamp until the piston has moved to a point where you can insert the pads easily.

The next thing you need to do is slide the caliper assembly over your new pads. Replace the bolts. At this point, it is a good idea to push down the brake petal a few times so that you may be assured of your brake pressure. Now you can replace the wheel and the lug nuts. It is a good idea to make sure that the lug nuts are truly secure. At this point you have successfully changed the brake pads on your car.

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Expensive Cars Versus Everyday Cars

Who has not dreamed of driving a luxury sports car? When you zoom through the road people can't help but notice you. A Porsche or a Bentley easily catches the attention of everybody and instantly, you become a star. Now, this kind of status is not available with everyday family cars from brands like Peugeot or Vauxhall. You might not get the admiring stares but the most important thing is that you have a car. Now, whether you have an expensive sports car or an everyday family car, you need to maintain them regularly. When it's time for repair and replacement of parts, you would like to locate, find, buy cheap, used car parts. UK (United Kingdom) has a lot of options to offer.

Thing is, when you have an expensive car, the maintenance is also quite expensive especially if you need to purchase the original parts. Of course you do not want to compromise the performance of your car just because you opted for a cheap alternative for a part. There may be those who do not worry about money and can always purchase brand new, original items for their automobiles. In fact, they can probably just buy a new car model if they want to.

For those who might be a little conscious about budget, the used car parts that are being sold at cheaper prices but are still in excellent condition can be great options. You still can find the original items and their condition is intact. The key is in finding the right dealer and in supplying accurate information about the model number, the car make and model.

These details are important whether you are buying online via the Web or through the conventional venues for used car parts like salvage yards, car parts shops, private parties, or swap meets.

As for everyday cars, it is very easy to locate, find, buy cheap, used car parts. UK United Kingdom is full of alternatives for these car parts since there are a lot of previous car owners who may have already sold their cars to these used car parts vendors.

Of course, whether used or not, the car parts for the sports or luxury cars will tend to be more expensive than those parts for the everyday cars. The bottom line here is that you still have saved much compared to what you will pay for when you buy the brand new replacement parts.

When you know where to locate, find, buy cheap, used car parts in UK United Kingdom, you will have given yourself a great chance at landing on a good deal for quality used car parts - whether for Peugeot, Vauxhall, Porsche, or Bentley.

The savings you get will be worth it because these parts will serve their function well so that your car runs as smoothly as before. Car maintenance is one of the most expensive costs that one needs to keep if he wants to keep his car in good shape. A well-maintained car would perform better and would be safe for the driver and passengers too.

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Seven Mistakes That Take Years Off a Heavy-Duty Transmission

Heavy-duty machines have more power and take more of a beating than those found in regular vehicles. This doesn't mean that they will live through years of misuse and neglect. Just like all other equipment, operators need to refrain from putting needless strain on these parts and should maintenance them on a regular basis to keep them working their best. Otherwise, you may be searching for rebuilt transmissions frequently. Here are seven mistakes that can take years off these drive parts and cost you to lose thousands of dollars in downtime.

1. Failing To Adjust Differential Bearings

As you use the equipment, the differential bearings move and loosen off from their original position. This causes the drive train to take far more of a beating than necessary. Every 1,000 hours, have the differential bearings checked and reset if needed. To do this, check with your owner's manual or ask a trusted mechanic.

2. Running Equipment On The Wrong Tires

Running on two different sized tires will cause you to search for rebuilt transmissions faster than you think. Sometimes, having one tire worn considerably farther than the other will also cause undue stress on the drive parts. To keep the transmission running in tiptop shape, check your tires regularly and always use the same size on both sides.

3. Having The Differential Lock Engaged Or Applying The Lock While Moving

Moving the unit while engaging the differential lock can have devastating effects on the drive train. Always make sure the machine comes to a complete stop before applying the lock. Also, be certain that it has completely disengaged before continuing.

4. Allowing The Wheels To Spin While Using The Front Bucket

While there are instances where this does happen, wheel spin should be avoided at all costs. To do this, shift original or rebuilt transmissions into a higher gear. This will relieve some of the stress on the drive parts and will move the load more efficiently.

5. Not Changing The Oil

Failing to change the oil and fluids on a consistent basis is one of the most common mistakes made with vehicles of all kinds. With heavy-duty equipment, change and check the oil and other fluids every 1,000 hours. Since you will be checking the differential bearings at the same time, it will save time and money. Besides, oil changes are far cheaper than major repairs on the drive train.

6. Failing To Find And Repair Leaks

Even if a leak doesn't seem that serious, it can drain the system faster than you think. Sometimes, they will leak faster once the machine is put under stress with a load. Run the machine dry of fluids and the repairs can easily exceed the cost of replacing the entire machine.

7. Shifting From Reverse Into Forward Or Vice Versa While Moving

Always, always, always ensure the unit comes to a complete stop before shifting into a different direction. This causes gears to pile and grind in ways that can be devastating to a unit. You could be searching for rebuilt transmissions the first time you make this mistake.

These seven common mistakes seriously damage and wear even the best original and rebuilt transmissions of the highest quality. Taking a few extra minutes to care for your equipment will save you thousands in needless repairs and replacements.

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Hydrogen, Hydrogen Generators, HHO, Gas Savers - The Definitive Facts

The purpose of this article is to dispel the myths, misinformation, and confusion induced largely by members of the media and others who are not too knowledgeable in this field. Part of the problem is that; the onslaught of "Run Your Car on Water" ads all over the internet is misleading. Although this is possible, these ads are referring to electrolyzers/hydrogen boosters which is a fuel saving device. "Supplemental hydrogen" would be a more accurate term. Unfortunately, there are some bogus companies out there but this device is real and it does work. There are many credible sources for information on this; The National Hydrogen Association, the EPA, and the U.S. Dept. of Energy (just to name a few). An electrolyzer/hydrogen booster generates hydrogen and oxygen (hho/Brown's gas) and should not be confused with hydrogen fuel cells which produces electricity and can be used to power an electric car.

The authors of these build-your-own plans all over the internet (in many cases) are not very knowledgeable. There are many factors to consider and the efficiency of the product (and whether or not it works) is going to depend on it. Also, the tools & materials needed to build something, with some quality, can be costly. I have read several articles from supposedly authoritative, professional, intelligent people who were claiming that these devices don't work. After reviewing their test procedures, it came as no surprise to me that they got negative results. Unless you really know what you are doing, you're better off buying a pre-made product from a reputable manufacturer with a guarantee.

The electrolysis (disassociation of water) process occurs when you apply about 2 volts to water but the device simply does not produce enough hydrogen to run a vehicle on it's own but can increase mileage significantly and, with gas prices nowadays, is a big plus. Adding an electrolyte to the water (such as potassium hydroxide) does increase hydrogen production but also increases amperage and generates heat as a result. Also, pulsed dc. is actually more efficient than straight dc. from your cars' battery.

A device called an EFIE (electronic fuel injection enhancer) should also be used as this compensates for the added oxygen in your intake. Your oxygen sensors monitors and sends a small voltage to your cars' computer telling it whether your a/f ratio is too rich or too lean. The EFIE sends a floating voltage on top of this telling your cars' computer that your a/f ratio is too rich and subsequently cuts back on the gas to your fuel injector.

Hydrogen has a lower ignition rate than gasoline which means that it ignites at a lower temperature so it is quite easy to burn hydrogen in a combustion engine. However, hydrogen also has a lower density rate than gasoline which means that it takes a lot of it to run a vehicle. Running a vehicle without gasoline (such as what Stan Meyer did) involves changing the state of the hydrogen to a higher energy state because of its low density. This gets complicated and involves some physics which I will not get into here.

I am an electromechanical engineer and have been in this field for 25 plus years. I have been involved with alternative energy for the last 9 years and have put together a full hydrogen conversion kit and am presently working on the electronics needed to support a generator that will produce enough hydrogen from water to run a vehicle. I started this company to help decrease and eventually eliminate people's dependency on fossil fuels.

Whether it's a product that I'm affiliated with or one that I build, it has to meet my quality standards. I'M A CUSTOMER TOO. If you're not financially ready for a full H2 conversion kit...that's OK. Do the next best thing and use less gas. So if you're confused by all those hydrogen booster ads, eliminate the guesswork and go with a quality product and a company that stands behind it. For reliable information & quality guaranteed products that you can trust, go to xaviertechnologies.com/electrolyzers.htm See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!

Get the Best Rates on Your Next Vehicle Today

If you are in the market for the most affordable loan to purchase your next car, truck, SUV, motorcycle, RV, or other motor vehicle, do not settle for outrageous interest rates or terms that are unreasonable. There are special lenders online who offer savings on motor vehicle loans for borrowers who have learned that doing business online can be worthwhile.

Avoid Exorbitant Fees

Unlike traditional walk-in lenders or banking institutions that typically service automobile and motor vehicle loans, online lenders have little overhead as compared to the number of customers that they service. This means that you will not be charged exorbitant loan servicing or origination fees that your local bank may tack on in the fine print of your loan documents.

Oftentimes, consumer borrowers do not realize that they are paying ridiculous fees until they have already signed on the dotted line and committed themselves to the loan. This smoke and mirrors technique is so common at most lending institutions that most people may never realize all of the associated fees that their loan carries with it.

In addition, online lenders can save you over the traditional bank because there is more competition online than in your hometown. Where your town may have fewer than twenty banks, there may be two hundred lenders at any one time who are seeking out qualified applicants for automobile loans on the Internet, if not more. This friendly competition between lenders can mean nothing short of significant savings for you, the borrower.

Financing online can also help you avoid unscrupulous dealer financing that is sure to be riddled with nickel and dime schemes to increase the price of your vehicle purchase. Dealers are infamous for making a quick hundred bucks or so on every car that they sell because they have partnered with banks to send applications to a particular servicer. Online financing eliminates this middle man concept, which means you negotiate for your loan, and pocket the savings.

Secure Online Applications

To apply for your new motor vehicle loan, go to the secure website that has been established by your new lender. From there, you can fill out an easy application that will ask you to disclose information regarding your previous and current employment, residency, and income - including how much debt you currently owe. You can send most required information to the new lender via email and fax for your convenience.

Vehicles Under Warranty

When choosing your new car, truck, or other motor vehicle, look for a warranty package that is included in your purchase price. A good warranty will include one hundred percent coverage on most anything that could go wrong with your vehicle during the first five years or fifty thousand miles of usage. Look for warranties that feature replacement tires and wheels in the event that you need to have one replaced. Your warranty should also feature a replacement vehicle for you to drive at no cost should your vehicle require repairs.

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Service Your Own Car

The benefit of servicing your own car is to save money, and let's face it in today's current climate of rising fuel and garage costs we can all save money by carrying out some basic servicing essentials. The following basic guide has step by step instructions that will give you the information on how to give your car a basic engine service including oil change, oil filter, fuel filter and spark plugs.

Please note that the following is meant as a guide for the standard petrol engine only and therefore should not be relied upon as fact as all vehicle manufactures differ.

Equipment Required

• Oil-drain plug spanner / suitable tool.

• Oil-filter pliers / suitable tool.

• Spark plug spanner / deep socket with extension bar and ratchet.

• Jack and axle stands.

• Oil drain pan.

• Clean rags.

• Safety gloves.

Oil & Oil Filter Change

The engine needs to be warm before starting these procedures as this will allow the oil to drain more freely.

1. Raise the front of the car with the use of a jack and then support with axle stands.

2. Using an oil drain plug spanner or a suitable tool, loosen the oil drain plug at the bottom of the sump and using an oil drain plug spanner or suitable tool slacken the plug approximately half a turn.

3. Position an oil pan directly under the drain plug and remove drain plug allowing the oil to run, be aware that it may take some time for the oil to drain completely.

4. Clean the drain plug and sump using a clean rag then refit the drain plug securely, ideally fit a new sealing washer before refitting plug.

5. Move the oil pan and position it under the oil filter.

6. Using oil filter pliers or a suitable tool loosen the oil filter then unscrew it by hand and empty the oil into your oil pan.

7. Wipe away all oil from engine-filter area with a clean rag.

8. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the new filters seal and screw into place firmly by hand.

9. Once you have removed everything from under your vehicle lower the vehicle to the ground.

10. Unscrew the oil filler cap positioned on top of the engine and pour in the specified grade of oil for your vehicle. Continue to do this until oil reaches the top mark on your oil dip stick and refit filler cap.

11. Start engine and allow it to idle for a couple of minutes.

12. Turn off engine and check for any leaks, allow the engine oil to settle for a few minutes then check the oil level at the dipstick again and top up as required.

Changing the Fuel Filter

The position for the Fuel filter vary on most cars however the most usual places are in the engine bay or under the vehicle usually close to the fuel tank.

1. Remove the strap that holds the filter in its position.

2. Look for the direction of an arrow on the filter (when available) and disconnect the fuel lines / hoses from filter and remove (please note that fuel may be spilt on removal). Prior to removing the fuel lines you will need to block the fuel lines using a small pair of mole grips or something similar.

3. Put the new filter into place and refit fuel lines / hoses.

4. Refit fuel filter into its original position securely fastening it back.

5. Start engine and check for any leaks, don't be disheartened if it doesn't start first time as the fuel takes time to circulate initially.

Changing the Air Filter

1. Disconnect all vacuum and breather hose pipes from the air filters housing.

2. Remove all retaining clips and open filter housing.

3. Remove the filter.

4. Fit the new air filter into its housing ensuring that it sits in its correct positions.

5. Refit the filter housing and securely tighten using the original screws or clips.

6. Reconnect all vacuum and breather hose pipes back up to the air filters housing.

Changing the Spark Plugs

It may be necessary to remove other parts to enable you to gain access to the spark plugs. Refer to your owner's manual if unsure and always change spark plugs one at a time.

1. Clean the immediate area around the spark plugs clean using a clean rag.

2. Remove the spark plugs (HT) lead.

3. Carefully remove the spark plug using a spark plug spanner or deep socket with extension bar and ratchet.

4. Carefully fit the new spark plug ensuring that it is securely tightened.

5. Refit (HT) lead making sure you have made a good contact / connection.

6. Repeat the above steps for each individual spark plug until complete.

See You Soon...!! Zzuuupppp..... It's a Plane...! It's a Bird ...!! No.. It's SUPERZAM ...!!!